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Electric Brake Controler
You have a short to ground in the brake wiring to the trailer.
The green light indicates only that the 'live' (power) lead from the controller ends in a ground back to the vehicle, i.e. that the circuit is complete.
It has no way of knowing that the ground is properly functioning brakes or just a short.
The reason switching controllers didn't work is that the same defective wiring was connected to both controllers.
Manual over-ride works because the electricity in such case takes the short partially, and the brakes partially.
Best of luck.
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Electric Brake Controler
Hang on a second, something doesn't sound right.
The green light should always be on *only* when a trailer is plugged in, and go out when not.
The light is a visual check that the trailer is plugged in and the wiring is forming a complete circuit. That way if you're cruising down the Interstate with a trailer out back and you look down and see NO green light, you know there's a problem *before* you get on the binders and get a big surprise.
If the light is on all the time, with or without a trailer, then the short is in the trucks wiring, if it is on anly when the trailer is plugged in, then the short to ground is in the trailer.
Which is it in your case?
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Electric Brake Controler
All is not lost, I found your controller on the Northern Tool website, and they had a short blurb that makes more sense.
"Smart LED light indicates power to control (green), electronic brake wiring short circuit (red) and level of power to trailer (changing gradually from green to orange)."
I'm used to the Reese equivalent that works a little differently.
So, having said that, it appears that the green light should indeed be on all the time, regardless of a trailer. That being the case, if the supply is not being interupted, I would have to say there is some form of fault in the controller itself.
Have you checked that the basic settings, especially the levelling adjustment is correct?
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Electric Brake Controler
If you have a decent digital multi-meter there is an easy way to diagnose it.
Measure the brake circuit resistance in the trailer itself by putting the meter across the ground pin, and the brake wire pin. Make a note of the resitance value on the lowest scale it will read it on.
Next plug the trailer in to the truck, but unplug the lead from the brake controller under the dash and measure from ground to the brake power lead. This reading should be *VERY* close to the reading you are getting on the trailer alone.
It is also a good idea to use the truck manuf.'s wiring pigtail they (should have) given you when you bought the truck.
Best of luck.
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